Hair waving apparatus and method



Nov. 15, 1932. R M, KEEL'E 1,887,555

HAIR WAVING APPARATUSv AND METHOD Filed May 2:5, 1952 3y Sheets-Sheet' 1 F115 j. Z7 5/ i? f FIC-3 5..

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. 67 67 ,@a ,Mie/e BY i 444564945444444 ATTORNEYS. F' I E E Nov. 15, 1932. R. M'. KEL

HIRV-WAVING APPARATUS AND METHOD Filed May 25, 1932 5 sheets-sheet 2 PIE 1E..

' INVENTOR. 0040/7 /@ee/e A ATTORNEYS.

Patented Nov. 15, 1932 UNITED STATES PATENTA OFFICE RALPH M. KEELE, OF SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED STATES APPLIANCE CORPORATION, OF SAN CALIFORNIA FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA, A CORPORATION 0F HAIR WAVING APPARATUS rAND METHOD .Application filed May 23, 1932. Serial No. 612,950.

This invention relates generally to apparatus and methods for the waving of hair, such as are adapted for use in commercial beauty parlors.

Itis an object of the invention to devise an apparatus and method of the above character which will result in a more effective an artistic wave,yparticularly with respect to the distribution of the wave over the entire length of the hair strand.

- A further object of the inventionis to provide an apparatus and method for the waving of hair which will berelatively simple in its construction and application, and which will afford uniformly good results in successive waving operations.

Further objects of the invention will appear from the following description in which the preferred embodiments of the invention have. been set forth in detail in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. It is to be understood that the appended claims are to be accorded a range of equivalents consistent with the state of the prior art.

Referring to the drawings:

Figure l is a plan view, illustrating hair waving apparatus incorporating the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. l, but with certain parts illustrated in diderent operating positions.

Fig. 3 is a cross sectional detail, taken along the line 3-3, of Fig. 1, with the waving forms omitted. A

Fig. 4 is a side elevational view, illustrating the method of employing the apparatus of Figs. 1 to 3 inclusive.

Fig. 5 is a side elevational view, illustrating a strand of hair completely wrapped upon the waving forms of the apparatus illustrated in Figs. 1 to 3 inclusive.

Fig. 6 is a cross sectional detail taken alon the line 6-6 of Fig. 5, with the hair strand wrapped upon the waving forms.

Fig. 7 is a side elevational view, of a suitable tool used to facilitate wrapping a strand of hair upon the waving forms.

Fig. 8 is a sectional detail taken along the line 8 8 of Fig. v7, illustrating the contourl of the blade of the tool.

Fig. 9 is a side elevational view, illustratinga suitableform of heater which can be ultilized'wlth the apparatus of Figs. 1 to 3 inc uslve.

Fig. 10'is a side elevational view in cross` section, of the heater illustrated in Fig. 9. A

Fig. 11 is a cross sectional detail, taken along the line 11-11 of Fig. 9.

Figs. 12, 13, 14 and 15 are diagrammatic views illustrating the different steps involved in wrapping a strand of hair upon the waving forms.

Fig. 16 is a plan view, illustrating a form of protector utilized in a modification of my apparatus.

Fig. 17 is a side elevational view, illustrating the protector of Fig. 16, and hair waving forms as they are utilized in conjunction with the same.

Fig. 18 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line 18-18 of Fig. 17.

Fig. 19 is a side elevational view, of a suitable tool which can be employed to aford a special type of Wrap upon the hair waving forms. p

Fig. 20 is a sectional detail taken along the line 20-20 of Fig. 19, villustrating the lcontour of the endL of the tool.

Fig. 21 is a side elevational View illustrat` ing the various parts shown in Fig. 17, assembled, with a strand of hair wrapped upon the waving forms. I

Figs. 22, 23,24 and 25 illustrate use of the tool shown in Figs. 19 and 20, for effecting a special type of wrap.

The various features of my method can best be understood after a description of one form of apparatus incorporating my invention. Thus referring to Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive, the apparatus shown therein includes a protector designated generally at 10. This protector constitutes primarily a clamping means for engaging a strand of hair adjacent the root thereof, although where heating is employed to lend permanency to the wave it also serves to protect the scalp from un ue heating. The particular lform of protector illustrated consists of two clamping bars 11 and 12, which are ivo'tally connected together by pin 13. e construction of these lll' bars may vary widely, although good results can be secured by forming each bar of a strip 14 of wood or like non-metallic material, having a pad 16 of absorbent material such as felt secured to its lower face. Wood strips 14 are reinforced by the bent metal strips 17, which afford grooves for receiving elongated pads 18 of resilient material, such as soft vulcanized rubber.

For nclamping bars 11 and 12 together, I provide a pair of links 20 which are pivotally connected as at 21 to the free end of bar 11. Pivotally carried by the free ends of links 20, there is a cam lever 22. Cam lever 22 is adapted to engage a hook-shaped portion 23, formed on the free end of bar 12. To clamp the two bars 11 and 12 together upon a hair strand, the bars are swung together upon the strand, cam lever 22 is engaged with hook shaped portion 23, and the lever then turned to the position shown in Fig. 2. `Secured to the upper face of bar 11, there is a metal plate 24, extending the length of the bar, and serving as a mounting for certain parts to be presently described. With the modification of Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive, bar 12 is also preferably provided with a pair of spaced lingers 25, which when the two bars 11 and 12 are clamped together, overlie plate 24 as shown in Figs. 2 and 6.

In conjunction with the protector and clamping means described above, I employ a plurality of elongated waving forms which have been designated 26, 27 and 28. Forms 26 and 27 can be duplicates, each being circular in transverse cross section, and being provided with end shoulders 29 to confine the extent of the wrap. In the particular modification being described, each of the forms 26 and 27 is likewise provided with pins 31 and 32 extending axially from its ends, the pin 32 being provided with an enlarged ball 33. Form 28, as illustrated, is likewise circular in transverse cross section,

and is somewhat longer than the forms 26 and 27. It is provided with enlarged end portions34 and 36 (Fig. 4), and with an axially projecting lug 37 and square pin 38. To facilitate engaging a strand of hair with form 28, this form is shown provided with a curved sheet metal tongue 39, one end of which has a pivotal connection 41 with the main body of the form.

In order to retain forms 26, 27 and 28 in 'l assembled relationship with respect to the protector 10, I provide a pair 4of posts 42 and 43, made of suitable material such as sheet metal. As representative of a suitable detail construction for these posts, post 42 is made of a piece of sheet metal' bent to form the convergent side flanges 44 and 46. Tle upper end of post 42 is provided with a slot 48. Side portion 46 is cut away to form a slot or recess 49, for a purpose to be present- 1y explained. Post 43 is likewise formed of sheet metal bent to provide the side flanges 51 and 52. The upper end of post 43 is provided with a'slot 54, while flange 52 is provided with an inclined slot 56..

The ball 33 for form 26 is retained between the flanges 5l and 52 to form a swivel connection, whereby this form can be swung to a position such as shown in Fig. 1, from a position such as shown in Fig. 5 in which pin 31 of this form is engaged between the flanges 44 and 46 of the other post 42. To disengage orm 26 from the position shown in Fig. 5, it is merely necessary to elevate that end engaged with post 42, to clear flanges 44 and 46, after which the form can be swun into the ppsition of Fig. 1. The ball 33 of form 27 is similarly retained between the flanges 44 and 46 of post 42, but at a some- What higher elevation. Form 27 can be swung to the position shown in Fi 1, from the position in which its free end, particularly its pin 31, is engaged between flanges 51 and 52. Obviously when forms 26 and 27 are in the positions shown in Fig. 1, to reposition these forms as shown in Fig. 5, form 26 must first' A be engaged with post 42 and subsequently form 27 must engage with post 43. The outward swinging movement of form 26 is accommodated by slot 56, and the outward swinging movement of form 27 accommodated by slot 49.

In order to retain the form 27 in the position illustrated in Fig. 5, with the pin 31 of this form between flanges 51 and 52, I provide suitable means such as a tab 57, having a hinge connection with post 43. When tab 57 is swung to an out of the way position shown in Fig. l, the pin 31 of form 27 can be introduced or removed from between flanves 51 and 52. When tab 57 is swung to the position shown in Figs. 2 and 5, removal of the pin 31 of form 27 is prevented.

In order to provide means whereby form 28, when positioned upon 'posts 42 and 43, may be locked against rotation with respect to the protector in one direction, I provide geo suitable means such as a lever 59, having a 62, adapted to engage ratchet teeth 63 formed on the waving form 28. Pawl element 62 is biased in a direction to engage teeth 63, by a leaf spring 64. By applying manual force to the lower end of lever 59, pawl element 62 can be retracted out of engagement with ratchet teeth 63.

As will be presently explained in operating my apparatus a strandV of hair can be wra ped upon the forms without the use of a special tool. However the use of a tool such asis shown in Figs. 7 and 8 is desirable. This tool consists of a handle 66, secured to a fiattened curved metal blade 67. The end portion of blade 67 is hook-shaped as indicated at 68 Fig. 8. Handle 66 is provided with a above, and in carrying out my method, the

operator iirst segregates a strand of hair rom the head of hair being waved. Protector 10 is then clamped upon the strand, in such a manner that the bars 11 and 12 of the protector are adjacent to and parallel to the scalp. lf the operator does not desire to use the special tool of Figs. 7 and 8, orms 26 and 27 are swung outwardly to the position shown in Fig. 1, and at least one com lete wrap or coil of the strand is placed a ut form 26. The wrap upon this waving form can be described as being substantially in the form of a helicoid. Form 26 is then swung to a position parallel to the protector bars 11 and 12, and its pin 31 engaged between the iianges 44 and 46. T he portion of the strand adjacent to the form 26 is then coiled about form 27, but in an opposite direction. After placing at least one complete coil upon the form 27, this form is li ewise swung to al position parallel to the protector bars 11 and 12 and itspin 31 engaged between anges 51 and 52. Tab 57 is then swung to a position to retain both forms 26 and 27 in the positions shown in Fig. 4.

The next operation is to wind the remainder of the` strand upon the form 28. To accomplish this, the remaining portion of the strand is flattened, and the tlp of the strand is engaged beneath the tongue 39, while the form 28 is held in the position shown inFig.

4. The operator then starts to wind the strand upon the form 28 in a direction opposite to the wrap upon form 27, by turning the form while it is being advanced toward the protector. When substantially all of theremainder of` the strand has beenwound upon form 28, the `pins 37 and l38 are positioned within slots 48 and 54.` The next operation is to tension the wrapped hair strand, byffur-` ther turning of form 28, which can be conveniently accomplishedbyapplying wrench or key to the lug 38. 'During this further turning of form 28, pawl element 62 ratchets over teeth 63, until a suiicient degree of tension has been attained. Form 28 is then locked against rotation in a reverse direction 1 to loosen the strand.

As will .be presently explained, after the wrapping operation, with the form positioned as shown in Fig. 5, heat can be applied to lend permanency to the wave. When it is desired to remove the apparatus from the hair, the operator presses upon the lower end of lever 59, to release pawl element 62, and then the last portion of the strand is unwound from form 28. Fprm 27 is then swung to a positionas shown'in Fig. 1, and that portion of the strand' coiled thereon removed following which form 26 is swung outwardly to the position of Fig. 1 and the remaining portion of the coiled strand removed. Lever 22 of the protector 10 can now be released, to remove the protector.

lf it is desired to 'employ the tool shown in Figs. 7 and 8, to facilitate wrapping of the strand upon the form, after the protector has been clamped upon the hairstrand, the lower waving form 26 is swung into engagement with flanges 44 and 46, while the form 27 is still swung to an out of the way position. The operator then carries the strand over form 26, and the blade 67 of the tool shown in Fig. 7, is thrust through the space between form 26 and the upper surface of the protector. The hook-shaped end portion 68 is then engaged with the strand as shown in Fig. 12, and by retractin blade 67, the strand is carried thru the space etween form-'26 and the protector (Fig. 13). This places one complete coil upon form 26. lf one or more additional coils are desired upon form 26, these operations can be repeated. After the wrapping upon form 26 has been completed, form 27 is swung into position over form 26. The remaining portion of the strand is then carried over form 27 in a reverse direction, and blade 67 is thrust thru the space between forms 26 and 27. The strand is then en aged with the hook shaped portion 68, and as lade 67 is retracted, the strand is carried thru between formsy 26 and 27 These operations can likewise be repeated for wrapping two or more complete coils about form 27. The completion of the wrap about form 28.as shown in Figs. 14 and'15, can then be accomplished in the manner previously described.

The' modification illustrated in Figs. 16, 17, 18 and 21, is somewhat simpler than that previously described. In this case theprotector 10 is substantially identical with the ioo protector of the previous modification, but

the upstanding posts '71 and 72, mounted ,l upon the protector, are somewhat modified,

and are provided with parallel side flanges 73 and 74. Forms 76, 7 7 and 78, corresponding to the forms 26, 27 and 28 of the previous l modification, are likewise somewhat simpliied. Forms 76 and 77 are duplicates, being circular in transverse cross section andl rovided with enlarged end ortions 79. orm

78 is provided with) an en arged end portion 81 having a slot 82 for engaging a key or wrench 80, andl with an enlarged 'end portion 83 providedwith ratchet teeth 84. Forms '7 6 and 77 arei of such length, and their end portions of such size, that they will readily slip between the flanges 73 and 74 of posts 71 and` 72, one upon top of the other, as s hown in Fig. 18. Upon positioning forms 76 and -77 within posts 71 and-72, form 78 'can be positioned upon top of form 77, -To

provide means to cooperate with ratchet teeth ,84, I have shown a leaf spring 86having its lower end secured to one side of postv 71, and having its upper end `provided with a bent hook-shaped portion 87 serving as a pawl for engaging ratchet teeth 84.

In utilizing the apparatus of Figs; 16, 17, 18 and 21, the hair strand can be wrapped upon the forms by the use of the tool of igs. 7 and 8. This can be accomplished by first positioning form 76 within posts 71 and 72,

and then wrapping one or more complete coils of the hair strand about the same, by utilizing the tool of Fig. 7. Subsequently one or more coils can be wrapped, in an oposite direction, about forni 77. The remainder of the strand is then wound upon form 78, and after this form is positioned upon top of form 77, further turning of the same tensions the strand upon all "of the forms, while paw187 locks form 78 against unwinding movement. To release form 78 from engagement with pawl 87, it is merely necessary to force form 78 manually away from pawl 87 after which the strand can be readily unwound from all of the forms;

Rather than to coil successive portions of the hair strand in the form of a helicoid about the Waving forms 76 and 77 I prefer to eiect a wrap upon these forms in the manner illustrated in Figs. 22 to 25 inclusive, by the use of a tool as shown in Figs. 19 and'20. This tool consists of a handle 89 secured to a flat blade 91. Blade 91 is bent laterally, and its end portion 92 is pointed as shown in Fig. 20. Rearwardly of the pointed end portion 92, the blade is cut away first coil.

to form a hook shaped space 93, in conjunction with a retaining finger 94.

In effecting a wrap by the use of the tool shown in Fig. 19, form 76 is first positioned with end posts 71'and 72, and the hair strand .i laid across this form, in the manner shown in Fig. 22. The pointed end portion 92 of the tool shown in Fig. 19, is then projected thru the space between form 76 and the upper face/of the protector, and thru the strand of hair as shown in Fig. 23. In other words the strand of 'hair at this time is divided or parted. The operator then engages the strand of hairwithin` the lhook-shaped space 93, as shown in Fig. 24. The blade of the tool is then withdrawn as indicated in Fig. 25, to carry with it the strand-of hair thru the part made by the tool. I another coil upon form 76 is desired, the strand can again be laid across this form, and the blade 91 ofthe tool is again employed to carry the.

strand thru the part formed in making the Form 77 is now engaged Within posts 71and 72, and a similar wrap, consisting of one or more coils, placed upon the same. vThe remaining attened portion of the strand is then wrapped, one coil upon top of the other, upon the form 78. A complete wrap of this `character is clearly shown in Fig. Its advantage over the wrap illustrated 1n Fig. 5, is that the hair is better distributed upon the f` rms 76 and 77, and likef .of suitable insulating material such as a phenolic condensate product. This shell is hollow, with rounded ends, and is suiliciently elongated to slip over the posts upon the protector, when the forms are imposition. The inner surface of shell 97, is covered by a sheet metal liner 98, which is surrounded by a suitable'electrical heating element 99. Shell 97 is formed to afford an air pocket or cavity 101, to minimize transfer of heat to the insulating material. The ends of liner 98 are provided with crimped edges 102, to lock the same upon shell 97. To facilitate handling of the heater, linger hold tabs 103 are shown extending upwardly from the sides of the shell. Mounted upon .the sides of the shell, I also provide spring fingers 104 which extend inwardly.

Assuming that a strand of hair has been )Wrapped in the manner shown in Fig. 21, a

forms and over the pad, inthe manner shown in Fig. 11. The pad is preferably saturated withsuitable solutions, the use of which are well known in the art. Clips 104 serve to retain the heater in proper position.

The use of my apparatus and method as described herein results in a more artistic and effective Wave than can be produced by apparatus and methods of the prior art. This is due in part to the fact that the hair strand is distributed over a. plurality of waving forms, instead of being Wrapped entirely about one form. When the hair is wrapped entirely about one form it is diiicult to distribute proper tension throughout the strand, and the heat does not readily penetrate throughout the hair. With my apparatus and method there is no undue amount of hair wrapped'upon any one form, and therefore` the heat 'can readily penetrate all portions of the strand. It has also been found that my apparatus and method will more eli'ectively wave that portion of the strand adjacent the scalp, so that the wave is uniform throughout the length of the strand, and so thatupon removal of the strand from the forms, it can be pushed upon the head ani paused to assume the desired final wave.

c aim: i

1. In a method of waving a strand of hair,

the steps of coiling the strand' about a waving form with the end. of the coil extending through a part in the strand, coiling the remainder of the strand upon another waving orm, then applying heat to the coiled hair while the hair is maintained under tension upon the forms.

2. In hair waving apparatus, clamping means adapted to grip a strand of hair adj a cent the base thereof, and a vplurality of Waving forms adapted to be rotatably carried by said clamping means.

3. In hair waving apparatus, n clamping means adapted to grip a strand of hair adjaf cent the base `thereof, a plurality of elongated waving forms, and means mounted upon said clamping means adapted to rotatably receive said waving forms and to retain the same in relatively close'parallelism.

4. In hair waving apparatus, clamping means adapted to grip a strand of hair adjacentthe base thereof, a plurality of elongated waving forms, upon which portions of the strand can be coiled, means mounted upon said clamping means for rotatably receiving l and retaining said forms, one above the other,

and means acting between the uppermost waving form and said clamping means, to retard rotation of said uppermost form in one direction with respect to said clamping means.

5. In hair waving apparatus, a protector comprising two elongated clamping bars movably connected together and adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair adjacent the base thereof, with said bars substantially parallel to the scalp, a plurality of elongated waving forms upon which successive portions of the strand of hair can be Wrapped, means for retainin said forms with respect to said protector, or independent rotation, with said forms substantially parallel and one above the other, and means for locking the uppermost form against rotation in one direction with respect to said protector, whereby the hair strand wrapped upon the forms can bemaintained under tension.

6. In hair waving apparatus, a protector comprising a pair of elongated bars movably connected together and adapted to grip between them a strand of hair adjacent the base thereof, post members mounted upon said protector and extending upwardly from the ends thereof, and a plurality of waving forms, adapted to be received, one above the other, by said post members, with said forms extending substantially parallel/to the scalp,

and means serving to lock the uppermost form against rotation in one direction with respect to the protector, whereby the hair strand wrapped upon said forms can be maintained under tension.

7 In hair wavin apparatus, a protector comprisinga pair o elongated bars movably connected together and adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair adjacent the base thereof, with said bars extending substantially parallel to the scalp, a pair of post members mounted upon said protector and extending upwardly from the ends thereof, a

plurality of elongated hair Waving forms adapted to be retained by said post members, with said forms substantially parallel to each other and to the scalp, and independently rotatable, whereby successive portions ofI the strand can be coiled about said forms, with the end portion of the strand coiled about the uppermost form, and means acting between said uppermost form and one of said post members tending to prevent rotation of said uppermost form in one direction With respect to said protector, whereby the entre wrapped strand can be tensioned upon said forms with respect to the protector.

8. In a method of waving a strand of hair, thestepsof ceiling aportion of the strand about a curler with one end of the coil extended thru a part in the strand, the part being so disposed that the hair is distrlbuted upon the curler symmetrical with respect to the line of centers of the free portions of the strand adjacent to the curler.

9. In a;method of wrapping a strand of hair upon a curler, the steps of laying a flattened'strand of hair over the curler, causing the strand to be parted at a point adjacent to the curler, and then pulling one end portion of the strand thru the part to complete a wrap about the curler.

10. In a method of wrapping a strand of hair upon a curler, the steps of laying a flattened strand of hair over the curler, causing the strand to be parted centrally thereof with respect to the longitudinal axis of the curler, and pulling one end portion of the strand thru the part to complete a wrap about the curler. y

11. In a method of wrapping a strand of hair upon a waving form or curler used in conjunction with a protector, theY steps of clamping a protector u on the strand adjacent the scalp, laying t e extending strand over a curler disposed 'above the protector and parallel to the scalp, and then pulling the strand thru the space between the protector and the curler and thru a part in the strand. f

12. In hair waving apparatus, a plurality of rotatable curlers upon which successive portions of a hair strand can be Wrapped, and means for retaining said curlers in close parallelism, one above the other and parallel to the scalp.

13. In hair waving apparatus, a plurality of rotatable curlers upon which successive "portions of the hair strand can be wrapped,

said curlers being adapted to be disposed in close parallelism, one above the other and parallel to the scalp, and protecting means disposed between the lowermost of said curl ers and the scalp. l

14. In hair waving apparatus, a plurality of, elongate? and rotatable curlers upon which succe sive portions of a hair strand can be wrapped, means Vfor retaining said curlers in close parallelism, one above the other and parallel to the scalp, and means for retaining the hair upon said curlers under tension.

5 15. In hair waving apparatus, clamping means adapted to grip a strand of hair adjacent the base thereof, a plurality of elongated curlers upon which portions of the strand can be wrapped, means mounted upon said 10 clamping means for rotatabl receiving and retaining said eurlers, one a ve the other, and means acting between the uppermost curler and said clamping means, to retard rotation of said uppermost curler in one direc- ?5 tion with respect to said clampin means,` the lowermost of said curlers being eely rotatable with respect to said clamping means and independentlyrotatable with respect to ,the uppermost curler.

20 In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set vmy hand. A

, RALPH M. KEELE. 

